Midsummer Magic in Lithuania

Occurring around the time of midsummer, there’s very few days (or rather nights) in the Lithuanian calendar that are as magical as Joninės (St. John’s Day). Pre-Christian in origin, when it was known as Rasos (dew day , the festival was co-opted by Christianity and took on special significance in the 20th century as Lithuania pressed for independence. The residue of its pagan roots live on in the garlands that are woven from wild flowers and grasses and worn on the evening of Joninės. Bonfires are lit, and candles sent out onto the lakes on small boats fashioned from tree bark. The whole night is also alive with song, as Lithuanians sing traditional songs, such as the plaintive and distinctive sutartinė (a form of polyphonic singing). The ancient settlement of Kernave, located an hour’s drive from Vilnius, hosts one of the largest and most impressive Joninės celebrations.